Simone de Beauvoir’s Food Dreams

“I eagerly took advantage of that privilege of childhood which allows beauty, luxury, and happiness to be things that can be eaten: in the rue Vavin I would stand transfixed before the windows of confectioners’ shops, fascinated by the luminous sparkle of candied fruits, the cloudy lustre of jellies, the kaleidoscopic inflorescence of acidulated fruit-drops–green, red, orange, violet: I coveted the colours themselves as much as the pleasures they promised me. Mama used to pound sugared almonds for me in a mortar and mix the crunchy powder with a yellow cream; the pink of the sweets used to shade off into exquisite nuances of colour, and I would dip an eager spoon into their brilliant sunset. On the evenings when my parents held parties, the drawing-room mirrors multiplied to infinity the scintillations of a crystal chandelier. Mama would take her seat at the grand piano to accompany a lady dressed in a cloud of tulle who played the violin and a cousin who performed on the cello. I would crack between my teeth the candied shell of an artificial fruit, and a burst of light would illuminate my palate with a taste of black-currant or pineapple: all the colours, all the lights were mine, the gauzy scarves, the diamonds, the laces; I held the whole party in my mouth. I was never attracted to paradises flowing with milk and honey, but I envied Hansel and Gretel their gingerbread house; if only the universe we inhabit were completely edible, I used to think, what power we would have over it! When I was grown-up I wanted to crunch flowering almonds trees, and take bites out of the rainbow nougat of the sunset. Against the night sky of New York, the neon signs appeared to me like giant sweetmeats and made me feel frustrated.”

                      -Simone de Beauvoir, in the opening pages of “Memoirs of a Dutiful Daughter,” dreaming of a sophisticate’s Willy Wonka world. Candy never sounded so magical.

A Carrot Salad a la Orangette

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More fun with root vegetables. I’m easing myself back into cooking after being on hiatus from the kitchen for a couple weeks. I’ve got a few flavors on my mind (the light curry from Lemonade’s curry cauliflower salad, the recipe for which already exists on the internet!) and some recipes that I’m slowly gathering ingredients for (cream of tartar and a cooling rack, for snickerdoodles and frozen seafood, for a particular kind of Chinese fried rice). At the moment it’s just about making the most simple of food for myself.

Enter this carrot salad, a favorite of mine from Orangette, way back in the day. Fresh, bright, portable and healthy. This salad is the platonic ideal of airplane travel food, just as Molly describes. I remember once being on top of my life enough to make this for myself before a cross-country plane trip. I ate my carrot salad with so much self-satisfaction on that trip! Alas, the rest of the times I’ve made this have been when I’m going nowhere in particular, and it’s fantastic. It’s great the next day, too, just as Molly says.

I love the bite of the garlic and tang of the lemon juice against the sweetness of the carrots. The whole thing is a lot of fun to eat. Note: the dish is a great opportunity to work on your knife skills.

French-Style Carrot Salad, adapted from Orangette

Ingredients:
5 medium carrots, julienned into match sticks

2 cloves garlic, minced

juice of a whole lemon

salt

2 tbsp of olive oil
1) Mix in a bowl and season to taste. Serve. Yields about 3-4 cups of salad.