There’s also a place where the chef was doing a California-style broth with lots of vegetables, though I wasn’t that persuaded by it. As Americans eating ramen, I think we’re looking for something specific—and that something specific is not helped along by tomatoes.

J. Gold, of course, in LP.

Of course some have gone way too far. You go to a restaurant where they introduce you to a carrot and say this carrot was born on the 9th of December and tell you where. [Laughs.] It is a carrot!

Jacques Pepin, who I just adore, in 2012.